The Rob Roy Way

I walked the 79 mile Rob Roy Way in May 2024 plus a 4 miles detour to visit the grave of Rob Roy MacGregor at Balquidder. This was a ‘tough on the feet’ walk mostly along the National cycle trail.

Day 1 – Drymen to Aberfoyle

Early start this morning catching the 0625hrs train from Rugby to Glasgow, changing to Glasgow Queen Street for a local train to Balloch, followed by a 20min cab ride to Drymen. It was early afternoon by the time I arrived at the official start (a bus stop) of the Rob Roy Way. The good news was that the heavy rain had held off pending my arrival and just as I stepped from the bus stop the heavens opened!

The early part of trail joins up with the West Highland Way at Garabdhan forest, I have to admit feeling quite jealous seeing several hikers heading that way as I ploughed on alone in the rain!

Given the weather I’d already abandoned my camping idea for the first night, options were limited so late on so I ended up booking the motel on the west side of Aberfoyle. The significance of this being that I missed the part of the trail that takes in the iron coffins at Kirkton Church, instead having to take a different route to get to my digs. I only covered around 12 miles on day 1, but given the weather and the late start I was quite comfortable with that.

I stayed at the Rob Roy Motel which looked like it hadn’t been updated since Rob Roy’s day. To be fair I slept well and they did let me in for breakfast earlier than scheduled the next morning!

Day 2 – Aberfoyle to Strathyre

After a very large full Scottish breakfast I headed off for the 15 odd mile stage to Strathyre where I was booked in at the Immervoulin campsite. Once I’d rejoined the path following last nights detour, it was a fairly long and step climb up out of the town. The weather was fab today and I breezed along without a care in the world, so much so that I almost missed the small diversion sign that took quite a wide path around the logging activity that was happening. The detour quickly became a quagmire and though those who had put the diversion in place had made the effort to make the path more accessible it was basically a 2 mile bog. My feet were wet through by the time I got to the other side, the point at which I realised that both my boots were coming away at the soles – great!

When I was planning the trip I’d seen a couple of videos on YouTube suggesting a wild camp spot near a small loch about 2 miles short of Loch Venacher. Two things happened that confirmed my decision to cut yesterday short and stay at the motel, firstly there was only small piece of flat land suitable to camp and there was already someone there, secondly I’d have never have made it across the boggy detour last night.

The walk alongside Loch Venacher is splendid, there are few camping zones there too. The sun was shining and walking alongside water always makes me feel better. I cut the corner at the bridge just before Callender as I had no need to stop off in town. There’s an easy alternate route that cuts off about a mile, then it’s a flat walk all the way to a nice cafe at Stank – a welcome lunch stop!

From Stank it was back in the national cycle path all the way to Strathyre and my campsite. Got a great pitch by the river chatted to a fellow hiker and YouTuber in the tent next to me before dropping off to the sound of rain on the tent.

Day 3 – Strathyre to Killin

I guess the inevitable question is “if it’s called the Rob Roy Way then why doesn’t the trail visit his grave?” and that is a very valid question and a question I asked myself as I was adding an extra 4 miles on tarmac to reach Balquidder. It was a very pleasant walk along the cycle path to Mhor84 the cafe at the junction with the road to Balquidder, before a couple of miles on the road to the church and graveyard. Balquidder is a very tranquil place with views over the loch, not a bad spot for a final resting place. Definitely worth the detour in my opinion. Mhor84 is a great place for a coffee and bacon roll too!

The stretch from here was pretty spectacular through Glen Ogle and across the viaduct. Once again the route followed the National Cycle trail which by now was giving my feet serious blisters! My feet really were Killin’

Killin sits at the end of Loch Tay and the Falls of Dochart greet you as you arrive into town. I’d booked a room at the Courie Inn in Killin. I must have looked a right state when I arrived as the owner offered to wash all my clothes and fetch a bucket of ice water to bath my feet!! I settled for a couple of pints instead.

Killin is an ideal stop off, a co-op, a chemist and a camping supplies shop all within 5 mins of the hotel.

Day 4 – Killin to Kenmore

The day of the long slog…

Today was the day of the predominantly tarmac road walk, bar a fairly short few miles from the off it was then just one straight road above Loch Tay for the whole day. The hotel halfway at Ardeonaig was unfortunately closed when I arrived there late morning, but luckily for me the chef kindly made me a pot of coffee and I sat and put my blistered feet up for an hour to take a break.

I’d seen only 1 possible wild camp spot just short of Acharn and that was my target for late afternoon. When I eventually made it the access was fenced off, apparently due to a landslip from all the recent rain. This is pretty much the only spot to wild camp along Loch Tay unless you can find a friendly farmer willing to allow you to hop over his or her fence.

I took the decision to push on to Kenmore and booked a cut price apartment at the Kenmore Club. It meant an extra few miles on top of an already long day but the thought of a washing machine, kitchen and a bar and deli over the road was just the ticket!

Day 5 – Kenmore to Aberfeldy

The downside of ending up in Kenmore at the end of the previous day was that I was now the wrong side of the river to take me to Aberfeldy. That said, the extra miles yesterday meant I only had about 9 miles to do. I made the most of the facilities at the Kenmore club (would recommend) and left late morning.

I really enjoyed the riverside walk and the closure of the 2 bridges to allow me to get back to the path was no biggy. there were some fantastic trout fishing spots and some great fishing huts along the route. After the trials and tribulations of the previous couple of days I thoroughly enjoyed the whole day.

Aberfeldy is a great little town, there’s a great cafe just as you enter the high street which is definitely worth stopping at if you get the chance. I had a bit of a ‘Truman show’ moment when an old lady sat at the empty seat at my table and chatted about my trip, my detours and my blisters and low points… “everyone finds their own path” she said, adding “I think you’re an inspiration”. felt like I needed to look around for cameras and felt quite emotional after that…so I went to the pub…

I stayed at the Aberfeldy Camping and Caravan sight, nice flat pitches and good toilets and showers. It was just the music, shouting and BBQ still going at 3am that I objected to!

Day 6 – Aberfeldy to Pitlochry

Final day and up and away early. Big shout out to Barry in the van opposite who provided the coffee first thing!

Another shortish day but don’t underestimate the climb up from Grandtully – it never ends!! After that it’s pretty much all down hill through the forest and over the wobbly bridge to Pitclochry. Unfortunately there’s no official end to the Rob Roy Way which is a shame so I called it at the train station.

On the whole the Rob Roy Way is fairly flat and straightforward walking. My wet feet on day 1 and split boots gave me feet problems the whole way but despite that I enjoyed putting another Scottish trail in the bag!

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